Level 28 & 29,GTower,
199 Jalan Tun Razak,
Tel: 03-2168 1899
Business hours: Tanzini Upperdeck (Monday to Saturday – 6.30pm to 10.30pm)
Tanzini (Monday to Saturday – 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm).
SITTING down to dinner and not having to worry about what to order can be a blessing, especially if you know that the chefs have gone to great lengths to ensure you take home an unforgettable experience.
Tanzini’s Upper Deck takes pride in doing just that and the menu on Level 29 changes every month, permitting chefs to go a step further in the realm of creativity to create that memorable gastronomic encounter.
The freshness of ingredients is of paramount importance here, as the restaurant sources for premium ingredients and quality farm produce in creating the cuisine they have in mind.
With a team of chefs headed by executive chef Johnny Fua of the Great Dinners of the World fame focused on creating cutting-edge food, diners can expect a journey of indulgence in contemporary European cuisine from the start of dinner right down to dessert.
The presentation of the Brown Mudcrab Crudo, the Amuse Bouche for the night, in a clear glass covered with foil wrap got most of us curious for a taste of what was inside.
The mudcrab, blanched and tossed in black bean paste with a touch of ginger, was topped with Avruga caviar to present a rather pronounced palate opener that seemed a strong contender to the Pan-fried Ricotta Gnudi Scallop and Hokkaido Scallop appetiser.
With a glass of white to wash down the flavour, I marvelled at the delicateness of the gnudi, made from ricotta and Parmesan with egg white powder for that extra light bounce in flavour and texture.
Paired alongside the scallop, the gnudi which resembles gnocchi was a delightful combination.
The Cannellini Veloute, the second course of the night, arrived in style with a single pale orange salted egg macaroon sitting on a bed of onion marmalade and chorizo croustillant, served in a large hollow plate.
Cannellini soup is poured to complete the presentation, offering a fusion of creamy, salty and sweet flavours in each spoonful.
Elegant and pretty, the Smoked Muscovy Duck and Parsnip in Few Ways unveils the parsnip done in three different styles.
In this parsnip medley, I enjoyed stewed parsnip, the chips and parsnip-truffle puree, which danced along elegantly with the duck.
Sous chef Eugene Lee said duck, covered in salt and smoked in oak for that woody aroma, is seared with its skin for that crisp and flavourful finish.
To cleanse our palate, we enjoyed a refreshing sorbet of mixed berries with pop rocks, which burst with light crackling sounds to awaken the taste buds.
In this six-course encounter, diners can decide between the Wagyu Beef Brisket and Nunavut Artic Char in Lotus Leaf for their mains.
Tanzini takes pride in braising and the wagyu brisket, braised for 52 hours falls apart easily as one forks into it, revealing the harmonious blend of garlic, shallots, herbs and spice, red wine and beef jus in the meat.
The wagyu’s fat content, Lee said, was responsible for the meat’s tender, silky and tasty finish.
To accompany the juicy meat, there was Fourme d’Ambert and Cauliflower Pudding as well as Four Angled Bean and Paw Paw Relish.
The creamy and smooth mixture of blue cheese and cauliflower mash was rightly paired alongside an unforgettable Paw Paw Relish, a papaya salad that was tangy and robust in flavour.
The Nunavut Artic Char in Lotus Leaf featured wild-caught Artic char in light soy court bouillon, simmered Kyoto eggplant and toasted baby sardine tuile.
Although the dish looked inviting as it was placed before me, I personally felt that strong flavoured ingredients such as kelp, dried scallops and onions in the bouillon did not accentuate the taste of the fish but instead masked its natural flavour.
While the lotus leaf was a novel idea for a wrap, the leaf’s aroma which is often used to add fragrance and taste to rice dishes, probably spoilt the taste of the fish further.
However, the restaurant’s Bitter Chocolate Creme Chiboust with Grand Cru Guanaja 70% Chocolate Creme Chiboust, Pecan Croquante, Banana Confiture de Lait and Fleur de Sel Liquorice Gelato, our dessert for the night, speedily got the disappointing fish off my mind the instant I indulged in it.
The chocolatey dessert, resembling cylinderical building blocks, were carefully prepared and a heavenly find in the gourmet adventure at Tanzini.
The four-course dinner at Upper Deck is priced at RM155++ (chef’s special, appetiser/soup/salad, intermezzo, main course, dessert), the five-course dinner is tagged at RM185++ (chef’s special, two choices of appetiser/soup/starter), intermezzo, main course and dessert while the six-course affair costs RM215++ (chef’s special, appetiser, soup, starter, intermezzo, main course and dessert).
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.