Exquisite French dining
No.132 Jalan Kasah,
Medan Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2095 0122
Business hours: Monday -Saturdays
(noon to midnight)
VOTED as one of the top six young chefs in France by the famed Gault Millau guide, chef Baptiste Fournier took over the helm of the executive chef role from his father, Daniel, at the family-owned La Tour in Sancarre, Loire Valley at 29.
Soon after the take-over, the 30-year-old restaurant earned a Michelin Star, and the young chef is continuously wooing food enthusiasts with his exquisite cuisine.
Yet the 30-year-old humbly claims he strives for balance by focusing on a small-scale restaurant and would always indulge in interests such as trekking rather than his job.
“Most French chefs are workaholics and that’s only because they are very passionate about their work.
“As a young chef, I work hard but I also appreciate other activities and, in the long run, I’d like to run a small-scale restaurant so it’s more personal,” said Baptiste who trained under famed chefs such as Alain Passard, one of the best chefs in Paris from three-star Michelin restaurant, L’Arpege and Guy Savoy, another three-star Michelin chef of his namesake restaurant.
On his food style, Baptiste agreed that his biggest influence is Passard, who is famous for his kitchen garden and fresh food.
“I try to put on the plate 50% vegetables and 50% protein.
“There is a special emphasis on vegetables in my cooking,” he said.
Currently, diners can taste a glimpse of Baptiste’s cooking for dinner at the Mezze Lounge in Medan Damansara for a limited period till Nov 3.
During a review of Baptiste’s food at Mezze on Nov 29, the Star Metro team was also welcomed by Baptiste’ uncle, winemaker Claude Fournier of Fournier Pere and Fils.
“La Tour is the biggest restaurant in Sancerre. It is very famous,” said the man, with a heavy French accent before introducing his wines.
During the promotion, Baptiste’s a la carte menu is also promoted along with Fournier wines by French sommelier Sebastien Philippe Lefrancois.
The menu itself features interesting French-inspired dishes with specially-imported ingredients. There are three entrees, five main courses incuding meat, poultry and fish, and three desserts.
Without a doubt, strong connections with L’Arpege are apparent in his food. The dishes come with interesting concoctions of vegetables that complete the sets.
Baptiste said the menu was a mix-and-match from a few recipes that had been featured at his restaurant back home.
I tried all three entrees, and I must say each has its own distinct flavour without the cloying feeling after a full plate of it.
These are Baptiste’s signature Mustard Ice Cream with Cool Tomato Gazpacho, Fondant Escargots et Pork Trotter in Vegetable Juice and the Terrine of Chavignol Fromage with Flame Raisin et Sauvignon Cream.
While the soup was refreshing and the goat cheese creamy and light, the escargot and pork trotter combination earned a special point at our table.
It’s not a typical combination, but Baptiste nailed it, and the dish that looked like a slice of Foie Gras was so good that our photographer had another plate of it all by himself.
The specials for the main courses were the Roasted French Pigeon with Baby Root Vegetables Puree, which was prepared using the sous vide cooking method and the French Sea Bream with Basil-infused Risotto in Buttered White Sauce Reduction.
I thought that the Duck Confit de Cannelloni was delightful with each bite.
Well-flavoured with the meat so tender and juicy, the dish is a must-try.
I didn’t get to try the desserts because the Crispy et Intense Dark Valrhona Chocolate with Banana Coulis never made it to my table, but I am sure it would have been a complete experience to finish off with it.
Fournier Pere Et Fils’ Sancerre White, Sancerre Red and the Menetou Salon Red went well with the menu.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.